Fare Magazine – Issue 13: Budapest

Fare connects armchair travelers with immersive and nuanced stories from cities around the world, and also serves as a kind of roadmap for those who are ready to make the actual trip to see things for themselves.

The unification of two ancient settlements, the Hungarian capital is a city of stunning architecture, kitchens churning out comforting classics, and a verve for social politics.

In Fare: Budapest:

• Dine at Rosenstein, a stalwart of Jewish-Hungarian cuisine, where matzah ball soup, chicken paprikash, and poppyseed cakes are treated with reverence

• Step into the healing waters of the Gellért Thermal Baths, one of Buda's grandest art-nouveau buildings and a living piece of the city's ancient bathing culture

• Meet Peter Pallai, a jazz critic and former radio producer who, as a child, was sheltered from the Nazis and later fought in the revolution against Hungary’s communist regime

• Learn about the past, present, and (socially-minded) future of Budapest's infamous and innovative ruin bars

• Partake in “Lomtalanítás,” an annual tradition in which spring cleaning turns into a citywide treasure hunt